GERMANY’S WATER-LACED CITY THAT’S A GATEWAY TO WHITE SAND BEACHES LOVED BY LOCALS
It’s not long after arriving in Lübeck before I have my first fish sandwich: lightly salted herring, thin slices of raw onion, and crunchy salad leaves squashed into a bread roll and handed to me in a paper napkin. I join others enjoying the same snack by the Museum Harbour, as the sun sinks behind the masts and ropes of restored sailing ships.
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The legacy of this former capital of the Hanseatic League is reflected in its Gothic architecture, from the stepped gable facades of wealthy merchants’ homes to the churches that define the skyline. The old town, a Unesco site, is surrounded by water. Small boats glide past historic salt storehouses that date to the 16th century.
Celebrated for its marzipan and for Thomas Mann, the novelist and social critic born in the city 150 years ago, Lübeck makes a great base for exploring Germany’s Baltic Sea coast. Nearby, the Lübecker Bucht (Bay) has more than 30 miles of white sandy beaches.
I start at Travemünde, about 20 minutes away by train, where the River Trave meets the sea. Here, a high-rise 70s hotel towers over one of the country’s oldest lighthouses, and bulky ferries occasionally obscure the four-masted barque Passat. The beach is dotted with rows of strandkörbe, Germany’s wicker beach chairs with humbug-striped canvas awnings.
Across the estuary is the sleepier Priwall peninsula, with its nature reserve and an undeveloped beach. I walk along the shore, hot grainy sand under my feet and crushed shells between my toes.
An information board highlights the former border between East and West Germany, showing images of the observation towers and high fences that once divided this coastline. Now the open beach stretches to the headland in the distance, with only lifeguards keeping watch.
I take the bus up the bay to the packed Timmendorfer Strand and the harbour in Niendorf. Here, kiosks and shacks line the water’s edge. I grab a seat at the smokehouse Klüvers and tuck into another fish sandwich.
These fischbrötchen are available all along the coast. They are typically filled with mackerel, salmon, shrimp or herring in soused, pickled or fried form. Quality, simplicity and a crusty white bun are key. Alongside raw onion, you might find lettuce and pickles, or remoulade with fried breaded fish. Younger vendors are starting to add their own spins on the classic dish.
Back in Lübeck, I explore the old town, where painted shutters, rose-framed doorways and book-lined window sills add splashes of colour. As well as Gothic, Lübeck showcases an assortment of architectural styles, from Renaissance to Rococo, and the post-war rebuilds. The European Hansemuseum dives into the story of the city’s development.
Nearby Restaurant Schiffergesellschaft feels like an additional exhibit. The former Seafarer’s Guild, built in 1535, is where skippers and merchants once met to discuss business. A restaurant for more than 100 years, the main hall remains almost unchanged. I sit next to strangers at the communal tables where intricate models of boats hang from the dark ceiling above us; the setting makes an obvious talking point.
The city has more modern dining, too. At Michelin-recommended Fangfrish, dishes include cured salmon and beetroot caviar, while opposite is the restaurant’s kiosk, Fangfrisch Brötchenbude, serving – what else? – fish sandwiches.
2025-07-05T06:22:38ZHow to get there
Ryanair flies from Stansted to Lübeck. Alternatively, trains from Hamburg take less than an hour and just under 10 hours, with three changes, from London. From Lübeck, you can reach Travemünde by regional train (RE8), bus or boat. A separate line (RB85), buses and cycle routes connect most of the main resorts along the coast.
Where to stay
Family-run city boutique hotel Die Reederin has doubles from €229 B&B. Hotel Anno 1216 has spacious rooms from €199.
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